Nestled within the clear waters of Maratua Atoll lies Nabucco Island.

Text & picture by: Adi & Mala Gehri
www.abcdivers.com

With only Nabucco Island Resort on the island’s 20,000 square metre area, is an exclusive hideaway with all the comforts of home. Each of the airy bungalows (8 twin and one single with a double bed), is equipped with a hot shower, a fan, a mosquito net and a beautiful view of the island or sea. Despite its small size, Nabucco Island is home to many animals both on land and in the surrounding sea. We saw monitor lizards lazily patrolling the coastline, while bats enjoyed the nectar from the flowering coconut trees above. Bird calls add to the island’s charm and we even got to see an elusive coconut crab.


Eco Friendly Resort
Wandering around the island, we realised immediately how hard Silke Brehm & Alex Shaetz work to promote the resort’s theme - Eco Friendly. All the resort’s structures are built around the local trees, so don’t be surprised to find a tall coconut tree sticking out of your veranda roof! We loved this concept. All waste water is biologically treated to preserve the sensitive marine environment, and safe drinking water is treated with ozone (O3) and then filtered. Pipes and wires are concealed, giving the resort a delightful rustic appeal. Even the generator is muffled, to ensure guests have a good night’s rest.

Generally, accommodation, diving, breakfast and a delicious five-course dinner are included in your package. Alex (previously a chef) and Gustav (the resort’s chef) prepare a variety of meals infused with local flavours. Lunch and all other drinks, including drinking water, have to be purchased at the restaurant or bar.

Diving
The resort’s dive centre is part of the Extra Divers Worldwide group. Thus it is equipped to international standards, having Nitrox facilities, dive computers and photo equipment for rent. Located at the jetty for easy access and with local dive sites a mere 5-20 minutes away, diving was easy and pleasurable.

The dive guides are attentive, and generally your dive equipment is assembled and already on the boat waiting for you. Diving is dictated by the current and tides. Putu (our dive master) had keen eyes and a great zest for diving, which we enjoyed.

There are 20 dive sites around Maratua Atoll. Here are some favourites:

Nabucco Cave
This was our first dive here and Alex came along as well. We had decided to explore a cave located on the outer wall of the atoll at a depth of 40m (131ft). As we dropped into the clear water, a strong current swept us along the wall towards to mouth of the cave. Reef hooks are extremely useful to have while diving here as currents are generally strong.

As we entered the cave, darkness soon enveloped us, and torches were switched on. Caves always send shivers down my spine. Despite being only able to penetrate as far as 20m (66ft) into the cave there was a variety of sponge growth on the inner walls. The only fish that seem to reside in the cave were squirrel and cardinalfish. Due to the depth our visit was short.

On our way to shallow water, we were delighted by a pair of spotted eagle rays that danced in the current. A large number of giant morays dotted the rocky landscape, and then suddenly a flash of bright blue caught my eye a blue ribbon eel. Satisfied we headed back, eager to enjoy Gustav’s cooking.

Big Fish Country
The next day we dived at Nabucco’s famous site – Big Fish Country. The site is only 10 minutes away and located at the entrance of the huge channel that connects the inner lagoon to the open sea. The flushing tidal movement creates strong currents that attract grey reef, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, huge rays and shoaling fish such as trevally and barracuda.

We dived here many times during our stay. The descent began along the outer wall of the atoll which is adorned with huge gorgonian sea fans and sea whips, ascidians and coral. On the way to the mouth of the channel we saw turtles, bluespotted ribbontail rays, sweetlips, morays and also an array of other reef fish. Stopping to enjoy the action was not an option, unless we hooked onto the reef, as currents were strong.

At about 26m (85ft) the channel entrance appeared and adrenalin started coursing though our bodies as the currents got stronger. Then, feeling like John Wayne, we took out our reef hooks and caught a rock instead of cattle! Once secure, we looked to the blue water as if at a drive-in movie.

On a good day eagle rays, sharks, giant tuna and turtles pass by. We even saw two marble rays and a Jenkins whiptail ray. After 5-8 minutes here, we drifted to the end of the channel where shoaling barracuda and trevally gathered.

The rest of the dive was usually spent exploring the inner channel where macro life thrived. Nudibranchs were everywhere and among those seen were Nembrotha kubaryana, Nembrotha lineolata, Flabellina sp. and Chromodoris kuniei. Porcelain crabs peeked out of anemones, busy catching zooplankton. Cleaner shrimps danced invitingly, trying to attract passing fish. Flatworms crept lazily over coral, and scorpionfish cunningly hid, waiting to ambush the next victim.

Lumatang
This site is characterised by a gentle sloping wall covered with the giant gorgonian sea fans that we have grown so accustomed to on dives here. Upon closer inspection of these gorgonian sea fans, divers will find longnose hawkfish, triplefin blennies and special surprises, such as a pygmy sea horse. As we observed large number of pufferfish feeding in the current, a leopard shark swam by, undisturbed by our presence. Colourful bouquets of tunicates splash the reef with vibrant colours.

Turtle Bay
Starting this dive along the shallow fringing staghorn coral reef, we slowly made our way to the drop-off. Large barrel sponges protruded from the wall. These were worth closer inspection, as hairy pink squat lobsters and flat rock crabs were spotted among the ridges of the sponges. There were of course numerous turtles. Feather stars perched themselves on coral heads to feed in the current. Even these had tiny residents among their arms, such as the elegant squat lobster, Allogalathea elegans, and the crinoid clingfish, Discotrema crinophila.

Lighthouse
We had three interesting dives here. Currents tended to be gentle, making it easy for photography. The wall was densely populated with soft coral, giant gorgonian sea fans and whip corals, which are teeming with life. Shy transparent whip gobies peered back at us from the whip corals. Another diver pointed out a great find – a spider crab, Xenocarcinus tuberculatus, crawling on another whip coral. We saw turtles, nudibranchs, bumphead parrotfish, large tuna, leopard sharks and bluespotted ribbontail rays…the list goes on. It’s easy to see why it became our favourite site.

Other Specialities
Besides the main menu (diving Maratua Atoll) there are side dishes like the jellyfish lakes, Kakaban Island and Sangalaki Island, which will make your dive holiday here perfect. Kakaban and Sangalaki can be reached in one and a half hours, in good weather conditions.

There are two jellyfish lakes in the area; one on Maratua Atoll and another on Kakaban. They are unique habitats and well worth the visit. An excursion to the Maratua jellyfish lake was combined with a visit to the nearby village Bohe Silian. It was on this visit we chanced upon an unidentified swimming sea hare at the village jetty. A rare find indeed!

Make sure to bring along a backpack and some shoes or diving bootees. The lakes are situated inland and we hiked about 20 minutes to get to them. Though the hike is short it is through muddy mangroves (Maratua) and rickety stairs (Kakaban). The backpack was vital as it kept our hands free to hold onto roots etc.

The Lake on Maratua Atoll is much smaller and so gives the impression of having more jellyfish. There are four different types of jellyfish here, with the upside down jellyfish and moon jellyfish being dominant. Snorkelling among these non-stinging jellyfish was a sensory experience: hard to put into words! Beautiful bright green alga laced the lakes’ edges. Besides jellyfish, we spotted numerous gobies, crabs, shrimps, bristle stars and starfish in the lake.

The resort arranges excursions to Sangalaki and Kakaban Island twice a week. Sangalaki Island is famous for its mantas which are present throughout the year. Snorkelling with them is quite magical.

Having returned to Nabucco Island, we are once again under its charm. Gardens full of colourful flowers scent the air. Yes, paradise awaits you at Nabucco Island Resort. http://www.nabuccoislandresort.com

Waypoints

Berau

Nearest International Airport
Jakarta

Dry season
Feb to Sept

Electricity
Constant 220V

Local Currency
Indonesian Rupiah

Country Dialing Code
+62