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Diving in Guam can be a quality experience
of reefs and wrecks with over 100 charted dive sites on the
island. |
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Vol.3 No.2
Features
Diving in Guam
A Pacific Gem
Photos & Text by: Tim Rock
Guam in western Micronesia is the richest coral reef marine environment
of any United States territory or state. Thriving with more than 700
fish species and nearly 400 types of corals, it offers great natural
biodiversity. Combined with its historic past that includes shipwrecks
and remnants from WWII, WWI and even the gold-bearing Manila Galleon
trading days.
This combines with Guam's unique topography. Volcanic in the south
and limestone in the north, this unique geological combination extends
beneath the sea. This provides steep, dramatic drop-offs and even
a barrier reef island in the south. The coastal areas are pocked with
protected bays and coves. The north provides coral reef flats, caves
and swim-throughs.
Consistently warm and clear water make year-round diving a reality.
Dive training on the island is also the most advanced and readily
available of anywhere in the Pacific.
Guam also has many marine related tours and institutions to offer
those infatuated with the ocean.
A world famous marine lab at the university is in the forefront of
coral reef research. A major walk-through aquarium, an undersea observatory,
dolphin, snorkelling and SNUBA tours are all available.
Diving
While the term "best-kept secret" may be cliché,
in many ways it applies specifically to Guam as there is much to offer
every level of diver from the new student to the jaded pro.
Guam is by far one of the safest dive destinations in the world. It
has U.S. Coastguard and Navy patrolled waters and dive boats are all
certified through the Coastguard. The boats carry oxygen and safety
equipment. Guam has recompression chambers for the treatment of any
possible diving accident.
Generally, diving on Guam is easy. There are many walk-in reef dives,
a very wide choice of boat dive sites and virtually no swells except
after storms. So 95% of the year the seas are perfect for diving.
Most dive sites are a 10 to 20-minute ride by boat.
If one wants to travel light, Guam has everything a diver needs for
hire. There are also some very good scuba equipment deals to be had
at the various Guam dive shops. Many divers' combine Guam with another
Micronesian destination.
Diving in Guam can be a quality experience of reefs and wrecks with
over 100 charted dive sites on the island. The healthy outer reefs
and coral laden reefs in the expansive Apra Harbour provide lots of
fish watching and marine invertebrates. The harbour also hosts many
shipwrecks and other remnants of war.
Guam is the southernmost island in the Mariana chain and the entire
area is famous for its clear water. A week of diving will also explore
outside the harbour to the drop-offs and inner bay reefs where good
visibility is the norm. There are also war relics on Guam's outer
reefs, especially in Agat Bay. This will give the diver the best of
both of these environments. Divers attempting this suggested five-day
tour should have a minimum of 100 dives and deep diving or wreck diving
training is helpful.
Orote & Agat
The Orote Peninsula and Agat Bay Reefs in south-central Guam is one
of the most popular dive regions on Guam as it offers a protected
bay that is accessible to divers for most of the year. In addition,
the area is known for its water clarity. Facing the open Philippine
Sea, the reefs here drop-off abruptly to great depths.
At The Blue Hole - Guam's premier novelty dive, this drop through
a cobalt chasm starts at 18m (60ft) and exits along a sheer outer
wall at 38m (125ft). Moray eels, shoaling goatfish and even big pelagics
are seen here with frequency. Visibility almost always exceeds 30m
(100ft). The dive starts at one of two permanent mooring situated
on a shelf above the Blue Hole. Divers descend into the blue water
and look around for any sign of big fish in the blue abyss south of
the wall. Whale sharks, sailfish and even dolphins have been seen
in the waters along this peninsula.
Shark Pit - Just down the peninsula from The Blue Hole, is a site
of WWII military dumping. This dive site is actually a big pinnacle
that comes to within 3 to 5m (10 to 15ft) of the surface. Divers enter
at the top of the pinnacle and descend along its sides.
Many artefacts like tracked vehicles can be found here, but the fish
life is also prolific with shoals of pyramid butterflyfish and even
the occasional ornate ghost pipefish in the sea fans.
Hap's Reef - Hap's has long been the favoured reef of Guam fish watchers.
Just right for a third dive, this 8 to 15m (25 to 50ft)-deep, loaf-shaped
reef supports a large variety of Micronesian fish species.
Sea anemones can be found on the top of the reef and there are different
clownfish species in the various anemones.
Apra Harbour
Exploring the top shipwrecks in Apra Harbour includes the SMS Cormoran.
This ship was scuttled by its captain to avoid capture and some of
the crew went down with the ship at the start of WWI. One of diving's
unique sites, the Tokai Maru rests next to and above it. It is the
only site in the world where wrecks from two world wars touch one
another. A diver can go aft of the Cormoran to this spot.
Sitting on its starboard side, it can be penetrated with a guide so
divers can see the engine room. The engine room hatches have been
propped open and the engine and the walkways can be explored by divers
who are familiar with penetration diving. There is a lion-claw bathtub
in the ship. Since the ship is on its side, care should be taken to
not become disoriented.
Tokai Maru - Sunk by a sneak attack from a US submarine during WWII,
this ship went down at the same anchorage as the SMS Cormoran and
portions of their sterns touch. Near this area is also the torpedo
hole from that strike.
The ship is generally shallower than the Cormoran but much longer,
so a full swim along it can take up an entire dive.
With a large bridge area and lots of holds, it is a great swim for
a second dive. Those familiar with penetration can go inside the large
bridge area here and see the remains of latrines, sinks and even tile-floors
but be very careful as it is covered with silt.
Kitsugawa Maru - This WWII ship sits upright close to the main shipping
channel. Divers normally descend the forward mast and then move toward
the bow of the ship. The bow is still largely intact and it is a very
photogenic spot for underwater photographers' wanting to capture the
essence of a war wreck.
It has a gun at the bow that still has boxes of ammunition on the
turret. There are holes where ammunition was taken from the boxes.
Look for octopuses residing in these holes.
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Swirls of tropical fish provide a constant
technicolour backdrop to diving in Guam. |
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The Northern Reefs
Exploring the scenic northern reefs and drop-offs also gives divers
a glimpse of the scenic northern cliffs.
Hospital Point - Located near the Tumon/Tamuning area on the west-central
coast, this site promises big pelagic action with colourful sea fans
and a steep drop-off that sometimes provides a nice drift-dive.
The water here is generally very clear with a reef flat up in the
shallows and then a sloping drop-off that can be quite steep in places.
Drift with the current here, divers trained in deeper diving can go
down and look for Gorgonian sea fans and shoals of bigeye trevallies.
Double Reef - Double Reef is located far up Guam's uninhabited coast
in the northwest. A small reef structure actually protects the inner
barrier reef and the bay area in between has healthy corals and white
sand. The ride up to the site is a pleasant one as the Two Lover's
cliffline and other coconut tree-lined beaches greet the diver.
Gun Beach - Named for the WWII gun that sits on its shore, this sloping
reef has a lot of fish life and is great for fish photography. This
is a favourite snorkelling site for some tours, so the fish get fed
occasionally. Thus, divers will find willing subjects almost the minute
they hit the water.
The Harbour Dives
Guam's Apra Harbour has some of the clearest water and healthiest
reefs of any Pacific harbour.
Hidden Reef, a healthy reef in the mouth of the Apra Harbour, has
shelves of stony corals and good fish life. This site isn't visited
that often by divers and surprises can occur here. Great hammerhead
sharks are seen here on occasion. Look for pyramid butterflyfish and
numerous sea anemones on the reef.
American Tanker - A very fishy wreck, this big water tanker is a remnant
of WWII. This tanker was probably sunk here on purpose after the war
as part of the building of the Glass Breakwater. The entire northern
peninsula in the harbour was built after the war and there are other
small wrecks, barges and other remnants all along this break.
Fingers Reef - Located on the south side of the harbour close to the
mouth, a natural reef formation projects many fingers of attractive
stony coral. This coral can be quite fragile, so divers should take
care to not break the formations with their fins. Divers can go shallow
or deep here but the most fish life is shallow, making for a long
and relaxing third dive.
Agat Bay
Guam's Agat Bay is calm and protected most of the year and a favourite
spot for divers to explore the deep drop-offs and sandy flats of this
varied topography. At Facpi Point, this deep drop-off area offers
a couple of good sites with red sea whips and clear water. This is
one side of a big horseshoe that spills out into the open sea and
into the depths. Sloping walls and sandy valleys with bright, white
sand form some of the sites at this end of the bay. So there's always
the possibility of seeing big fish like marlin or sailfish here and
grey reef sharks are seen as well.
Agat Bay Amtrac - In this scenic part of the bay, the water runs along
a shelf and into a deep valley that eventually spills into open sea.
Then past Hap's reef are shallower sand valleys. The shelf holds the
remnants of a US Amtrac, which was probably part of the invasion mission
to retake the area.
Guam
Coral Gardens - Anae Island sits south of the Agat Marina and is a
place where there are nice corals and lots of different marine creatures
from spinner dolphins to eagle rays. Just a short boat ride out of
the mouth of the marina, divers can drift through the sandy channel
areas or go up into the coral growth closer to the island to explore.
This scenic area near Anae Island is great for macro critters like
colourful flatworms, nudibranchs and Christmas tree worms.
Snorkelling
For those who may not have the time or training to do a lot of diving
but still want to see what the sea life is like, snorkelling and marine
destinations abound. This is also great family fun. For example, Guam
has five zoned areas as marine preserves. One of these is Fish Eye
Marine Park, where you can snorkel and visit an undersea observatory.
This walk-in site has more than 200 fish species as it is a marine
park and incubator for fish and invertebrates. Divers can see the
healthy reef on the south side of the observatory, feed the fish and
even snorkel around the observatory itself. A visit to the unique
observatory is also included and can be done before or after the snorkel.
The tour has seven stops and looks at various fish species, different
corals and also a sea anemone colony with clownfish.
There is a resident pufferfish just under the entry and an exit platform
at Fish Eye. Afterwards, take a trip inside the observatory or visit
the gift shop in the Fish Eye facility across the street. There is
also and undersea marine photography gallery found here.
For lunch, grab something and visit Tumon Bay's Ypao Beach. Another
easy walk-in snorkel at one of Guam favourite beach parks in Tumon
Bay, the clear waters and brilliant white sand make this a great place
to enjoy the many corals and fish. Set next to one of Guam's nicest
public parks, one can have lunch before or after the snorkel at beach
side.
There is an inshore current here and if the current is strong, the
snorkeller can do a drift along the reef-top and just walk back up
the beach when finished with this free ride from Nature.
This snorkel package is a full day of enjoying the wonderful marine
life of the Pacific.
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